The Royal Palace in Amsterdam (Koninklijk Paleis te Amsterdam in Dutch) is
one of three palaces in the Netherlands which is at the disposal of
Queen Beatrix by Act of Parliament. It is situated in the west side of
Dam Square in the centre of Amsterdam, opposite the War Memorial and
next to the Nieuwe Kerk.
It was built by Jacob van Campen, who took control of the
construction project in 1648, as the Town Hall for the City of
Amsterdam, and was built on 13,659 wooden piles. It was opened on 20th
July 1655 by the leaders of the city. The interiors, focusing on the
power and prestige of Amsterdam, were completed later (mainly by
Rembrandt and Ferdinand Bol).
After the patriot revolution which swept the House of Orange from
power a decade earlier, the new Batavian Republic was forced to accept
Louis Napoleon Bonaparte, brother of Napoleon Bonaparte, as King of
Holland in 1806. After holding his court at The Hague and Utrecht, Louis
Napoleon moved to Amsterdam, and converted the Town Hall into a royal
palace for himself.
The King of Holland did not have long to appreciate his new
palace. He abdicated on the 2 July 1810, and the Netherlands was annexed
by France. The palace then became home to the French governor, Charles
François Lebrun.
Prince William VI (son of Prince William V of Orange), returned
to the Netherlands in 1813, after Napoleon fell from power, and restored
the palace to its original owners. After his investiture as King William
I of the Netherlands, however, Amsterdam was made the official capital
of the United Kingdom of the Netherlands (the seats of government being
Brussels and The Hague). The new King realised the importance of having
a palace in the capital, and the Town Hall again became a royal palace.
It was made property of the Kingdom of the Netherlands in 1936,
and is used by the Queen for entertaining and hosting official
functions, such as state visits, the New Year reception, and the
presentations of the Erasmus, Royal Grant to Painting and Prince Claus
prizes.
At the time it was the largest secular building on Earth and was labelled
the "Eighth Wonder of the World". Today, the palace is one Amsterdam's
few freestanding buildings standing detached at the west end of the Dam.
Its 114-window facade, once radiant, have faded over the years. However,
its interiors remain breathtaking and are the main reason why hundreds
of thousands continue to visit every year.
For such a grand undertaking, it was only natural that the Dutch
masters be the chosen decorators. Creative duties were delegated to
Rembrandt's students Ferdinand Bol and Govert Flinck, and to his
contemporary, Jan Lievens (Rembrandt's own prospective sketches were
rejected). While they set about painting the ceilings, white Italian
marble was laid on the floors below and sculptures placed strategically
throughout the rooms and hallways. Evidence of the 17th-century
Amsterdammers' assertion of affluence and self-importance is everywhere.
As you step into the public entrance hall (the Burgerzaal), for example,
you'll see two maps beneath your feet; note that Amsterdam is not only
at the centre of the world, but, due to the heavens painted above, also
at the heart of the universe. Outside, the roof is capped with what are
now merely reminders of the city's seafaring prowess. The pediment
overlooking the Square is adorned by Flemish sculptor Artus Quellin's
baroque-style ode to ocean, and atop the cupola, a golden weathervane
fashioned in the shape of a Dutch sailing ship twirls in the breeze.
Despite this lavishness, the building was still only a town hall
until the early 19th century. In 1806, Louis Napoleon was forcibly
imposed as King of Holland, and after holding court at The Hague and
Utrecht, finally moved to the capital two years later. He chose to stay
in the town hall, which subsequently received a French Empire makeover.
Although Napoleon was only here a couple of years, there's an impressive
collection of furniture remaining from his stay, including various
tapestries, clocks and extravagant chandeliers. In 1813, the building
reverted to Dutch ownership, becoming the home of Prince Willem VI
(later King Willem I). It's now the property of the Kingdom of the
Netherlands, and is the official residence of the Dutch Royal Family,
hosting functions like the Queen's New Year reception. The palace's
history is covered in greater detail in a superb English-language video
presentation that's shown continuously in the Magistrate's Court on the
second floor. In it you'll also learn many fascinating facts relating to
the building's construction, including how 13,659 wooden piles were laid
in Amsterdam's boggy foundations to support the hall - a figure drilled
into the minds of all Dutch schoolchildren by means of adding 1 and 9 to
either end of the total number of days in a year.
Town hall in the Dam Square (1648/65), now Royal Palace
Introduction
The construction of the Royal Palace was begun in 1648 and completed in
1665. The building was designed to serve as a town hall.
Jacob van
Campen is the architect responsible for the overall design, while
Daniël
Stalpaert, the city architect, was put in charge of the technical
realisation. After Van Campen’s quarrel with the city administrators, he
left the city. In 1654 Stalpaert was appointed project manager in charge
of the entire operation. Artus Quellijn, the Flemish sculptor, and his
associates completed the sculptures. However, at the time of the opening
ceremony, in 1655, the project had not been fully completed yet. It
would take another ten years to finish the entire operation, whereas the
internal decoration was an ongoing process that continued till well into
the 18th century.
The old medieval town hall,
predecessor of the current Royal Palace, depicted by Pieter
Saenredam
(collection Rijksmuseum)
There were several good reasons to replace the old
Gothic
town hall. The administration of the rapidly growing city had outgrown
its accommodation. Moreover, the condition of the medieval building had
deteriorated to the point where it became dangerous to enter the
premises. A new, larger town hall was badly needed. While the
construction of the new town hall was still in progress, the old one
burned down.
Apart from the practical reasons for embarking on the project of
building a new town hall, the growing self-confidence of the city, which
mainly resulted from the successful negotiations of the Münster Peace
Treaty in 1648, needed an outlet. A project which comprised the planning
and construction of the largest government building in 17th century
Europe proved the ideal public relations effort for the rich and
powerful and above all republican city of Amsterdam. The general
euphoria induced the city administrators to choose the most prestigious
design from several plans submitted by the leading architects of the
day.
The city was proud of its town hall. Generations of school children
where taught the symbolic significance of the number of wooden poles
making up the foundation (13,659 poles, one for each of the days of the
year with a one in front and a nine behind). The eighth Wonder of the
World - a popular nickname in praise of this remarkable achievement -
was designed to reflect the prosperity and power of Amsterdam. Brick was
considered too pedestrian a construction material. A yellowish sandstone
from Bentheim in Germany was used for the entire building (the stone has
darkened considerably in the course of time, see the pictures below),
while only marble was considered good enough for the interior. Jacob van
Campen drew inspiration from the public buildings of Rome. A new Capitol
was built for the Amsterdam burgomasters who thought of themselves as
the consuls of the new Rome of the North. The glory of the Dutch
Republic in general and the city of Amsterdam in particular yielded the
most important historic and cultural monument of 17th century Holland.
The building can be seen on many old
drawings and paintings.
Until 1808 the building was used as a town hall. Subsequently, king
Louis Napoleon turned it into a royal palace. The galleries were
provided with wooden partitionings to create additional rooms. A balcony
was added to the facade to meet royal public relations requirements.
Splendid Empire furniture - still part of the collection of the palace
today - served to modernise the interior decoration. In the course of
the 20th century much work was done to the building. Louis Napoleon’s
modifications were reversed and the palace was restored to its original
state of a government building based on classical models. Since the 1960
restoration the building has been open to the public, though on a
limited scale.
Style
Jacob van Campen designed a well-balanced building in a style we call
Dutch
Classicism. He exercised a considerable amount of restraint as far
as the basic shapes and decorative schemes were concerned. These
starting points resulted in a set-up characterised by perspicuity of
design. Nowhere does the decoration distract one’s attention from the
overall structure. The facade is a harmonious composition based on the
proportions advocated by the champions of classical architecture. The
prominent plinth supports two pilaster zones, each of them corresponding
with a large and a smaller window (i.e. 1.5 storeys). Corinthian
pilasters articulate the upper and Composite pilasters the lower
section, a scheme promoted by Vincenzo Scamozzi. The middle ressault and
fronton as well as the corner pavilions slightly project beyond the
building line. Capitals, festoons and other sculptural elements are of
the very best quality without drawing too much attention to themselves.
The festoons were copied by many designers of canal houses. Especially
impressive are the large sculptured marble pediments and the bronze
statues on top of the
frontons.
The dome is crowned by a
weather vane in the shape of the oldest version of the Amsterdam
coat of arms, the cargo ship. The original plan of the dome
included eight sculptures representing the points of the
compass. However, this plan was never realised.
The central dome afforded a fine view of the IJ and the arrivals and
departures of the many ships. A notable aspect of the building is the
lack of a conspicuous main entrance. Seven unadorned arches at street
level (no steps) give access to the building, indicating that the town
hall belonged to everybody.
Whereas the exterior of the building is austere and reticent in
character, its
interior may well be called dazzling. Jacob van Campen’s town hall,
now the royal palace, should therefore be a priority on every
sightseer’s list.
Literature
Katharine Freemantle, The Baroque Town Hall of Amsterdam,
Utrecht 1959
J.E. Huisken, K.A. Ottenheym, G. Schwartz e.a., Jacob van
Campen. Het Klassieke ideaal in de Gouden Eeuw, (Summary in
English), Architectura & Natura Pers, Stichting Koninklijk Paleis
Amsterdam, Amsterdam 1995
Eymert-Jan Goossens, Treasure wrought by Shishel and Brush,
The Town Hall of Amsterdam in the Golden Age, Waanders,
Stichting Koninklijk Paleis Amsterdam, Zwolle 1996
Lampposts
Lampposts
dating back to 1844
Six cast iron lampposts surround the building. They date back to 1844
and were designed by Tetar van Elven (1803-1883). The royal lampposts
were cleaned and painted in 1997 and are well worth a closer look.